Monday, September 6, 2010

Au Bonheur des Petites Mains - Pants with Side Tucks (PL000001)

Sorry the pose is a bit weird, but it was hot and I was in a hurry. :) This pic shows the pant silhouette the best.

Time for another Au Bonheurs pattern! I do tend to spread these out, don't I? :)

I made this intriguing design using my beloved black ponte from Fabrix. (I bought 50 or 60 yards of this for $2.39 a yard and resold, for the same price, much of it to fellow sew group friends. I think I sold too much of it, though, cause I'm getting low! ;) )

The pattern is designed for woven fabrics and calls for an invisible zipper. (The photo on the website is made from what looks like a white linen and has an exposed zipper, but the photo on the pattern itself is made from a black fabric with an invisible zipper.)

I made a size 46, which is the largest size on the pattern. To be honest, though, I could have made a smaller size because the pants are fairly roomy through the hips, especially in the ponte. I made minimal changes to the pattern this time - I enlarged the waist and used elastic waistband instead of a zipper. I had to shorten the pants about 2.5", but I did this after construction, since the legs are straight tubes at the hem - the shaping happens higher up. I cut the pants with extra length at the top to ensure that the crotch was long enough and I just cut off the excess before attaching the waistband.

I am wearing these with a new top. This is Teagarden T #5, made with a ponte from Fabricmart. I really like these pants and they remind me, just a bit, of Vogue 8397A, from Marcy Tilton, one of my favorite pant patterns.

For those of you who want to make these, here is my translation of the instructions, though of course I didn't bother with the zipper or facings:

  • Sew the tucks on the side bottom (3) by placing the X mark on top of the O mark and fold the tuck towards the top or the bottom, as indicated by the arrows. Secure with pins.
  • Sew the side bottom (3) to the side top (2), following marks C and D. Turn the seam allowances up and topstitch the width of the presser foot.
  • Sew the front (1) to the side starting at mark A, turning the corner. Turn the seam allowance towards the side and topstitch the width of the presser foot.
  • Sew the back top (4) to the back bottom (5), according to marks E and F. Turn the seam allowances up and topstich the width of the presser foot.
  • Insert the invisible zipper in the center front crotch opening.
  • Sew the rest of the crotch seam.
  • Sew the inseam.
  • Interface the facings. Sew the back facing (7) to the front facing (6).
  • Sew the facing to the waist, right sides together. Turn the facing to the inside and topstitch the width of the presser foot.

I just noticed that this pattern is on sale for 8 Euros (regularly 11.50 Euros), so maybe it will be discontinued soon?